Las Leñas with a powder forecast: the week that lived up to it

Las Leñas has a reputation. When it's on, it's arguably the best lift-served big-mountain skiing in South America. When it's not — when the Marte chair stays closed for a week of high wind — it's a lot of money to ski a small lower mountain.

We caught it on. Two-day storm Sunday into Tuesday, Marte spun Wednesday morning, and we skied four straight days of soft snow off the top before the next system rolled in.

The traverse off Marte to skier's left — Eduardo's, the long entrance to the Cordon de Pollo zone — is what people come here for. It's not technical, but it's serious: long, exposed, and you need to know where you're going. Hire a guide for your first day above Marte. It pays for itself the moment you ski the right line into the right exit and don't waste an hour on a wrong drainage.

Logistics reality: Malargüe is small. Lodging at the base is convenient but expensive and limited. Staying in Malargüe town and driving up is cheaper but you lose flexibility on storm-clear mornings when the first chair matters.

If you're booking Las Leñas, build the trip around the forecast. Buy refundable lodging where you can. Be ready to push or pull dates by 48 hours. It's the only resort on the continent where I'd say that out loud.